Some simple bruschetta to start.

Pizza Calabrese with spicy salami, hot peppers and capers.

And Justin’s favorite: pizza with french fries!

We decided to have our last meal at the very first pizzeria we tried four years ago on our first night in Sicily. It’s not the best pizza, but it’s pretty good. And it was fun to relive our first dining experience in Sicily. Afterwards we walked down the street to get some pastries for dessert.

As you can imagine, it took a while to choose one

Well, we are now officially back in the United States.

Although we won’t make it to San Diego until tomorrow morning, we arrived in Virginia this afternoon and have checked into our hotel. The animals survived the trip with absolutely no problems and we humans are doing fine despite the fact that we haven’t really slept in about 42 hours. Now as long as we can make it to the airport by 4 am tomorrow, everything should work out fine!

Off to sleep…more tomorrow!

Remember how I joined NaBloPoMo and made a promise to post something every day for the entire month of November? Well, it’s day eleven now and I’m starting to feel the pressure. But here I am, back again!

This is our last weekend in Sicily so we have been trying hard to squeeze in as much last minute sightseeing as we can. Today was a beautiful sunny day so we took a road trip through the island’s interior, visiting the towns of Agira, Nicosia and Sperlinga. Since we were gone all day and it’s now getting close to my bedtime, I am just going to share some photos taken throughout the day rather than writing about the trip. Enjoy!

You can check out my Flickr photoset if you want to see more from the trip!

Antipasti (appetizer): Two types of salami (one spicy, one not), cheese, olives, peperonata (marinated sweet and sour peppers with pine nuts and raisins), garlicky eggplant slices, one square of something really tasty that was obviously made with eggs and cheese but I’m not sure what it’s called, and one square of something else (again, I have no idea what it’s called) that was layered with eggplant, tomato, cheese, and some other things.

Antipasto is always my favorite course!

Primo (first course): Homemade pasta with ragu (meat sauce) and Risotto with porcini mushrooms. Both of these were excellent! The pasta with ragu was some of the best I’ve tasted and I’ve eaten a lot of ragu since I’ve been on this island! The risotto had just a hint of saffron and the porcini mushrooms (the only type of mushroom that I really like) were wonderful!

Secondo (second course): Grilled sausage, veal scallopine with porcini mushroom cream sauce, chicken involtini (thin chicken breast layered with cheese, bread crumbs and ham, rolled up, breaded with seasoned bread crumbs and fried), mixed salad. This was also really good. Justin thought this was the best sausage he’s had in Sicily and I think I have to agree. The veal was a little tough but the porcini cream sauce made up for it. The involtini was pretty standard but a little on the dry side. What was really surprising was that the salad had potatoes in it. In Sicily you’re generally lucky to find even a tomato in a mixed salad because ‘mixed’ could simply mean some lettuce mixed with radicchio. But this salad had lettuce, radicchio, tomato, carrot and potato. It was good.

Dolce (dessert): Apple Cake. For dessert we were served a slice of torta di mela (apple cake). It was ok, but a little dry. I have to admit that I’m not a huge fan of many Italian cakes. But, I ate all of it

And, of course, the only way to end an Italian meal is with a shot of espresso!

I thought you might be interested to know what a typical Sicilian lunch might look like. In Italy, lunch is the most substantial meal of the day. Although most people don’t sit down to this type of meal every day anymore, it is still a must on the weekends.

Many restaurants will have a fixed price lunch like this where you just sit down and eat whatever they bring you. It’s my favorite way to dine in Sicily because you know that what you are eating is most likely fresh and local. In my experience, the normal price for this type of meal ranges between 20 and 25 euros.

The photos above show the lunch we had today in a restaurant in the small mountain town of Sant’Alfio. The town’s claim to fame is a giant Chestnut tree that is supposedly the largest tree and oldest tree in Europe. It is estimated to be between 3000 and 4000 years old.

This is only one small part of the tree, it was difficult to get a shot that showed the immensity of it. But I liked this one with the couple standing under the umbrella.

We had quite a few adventures driving around Mount Etna today but I’ll have to tell you more about it tomorrow! We’ve been out all day and I still need to sort through the rest of my photos before I can tell you the rest of the story. I did, however, need to share something with you today in order to fulfill my NaBloPoMo commitment!

And just a quick reminder to cast a vote today for your Best Food Blog pick in the 2007 Weblog Awards. Remember, you can vote once every 24 hours until November 8th! If you haven’t done so already, you can go vote here.

We struck out with the men’s carryall but look what I found in the parking lot!

Like I’ve said before, you just never know what you’ll run across in Sicily.

Isn’t this the scariest looking tree you’ve ever seen? It took about ten minutes of googling when we got home, but I figured out that this is a Floss Silk Tree. And guess what? They grow in San Diego, too! I guess I’d better watch my step when I get there!

The cool thing about this tree was the contrast between the frighteningly evil-looking trunk and bright beautiful flowers hanging off the branches. It was really quite amazing and I have no idea how I missed these trees all the other times I shopped there. If you’re interested, you can go check out some more spiky tree photos on my flickr page.

After shopping, we came back home for our own ‘riposo’ and decided to head out to Catania later in the evening to continue the quest for a decent man purse.

Riposo in Sicily generally lasts from 1 pm until 4 pm. Pretty much everything closes up except for restaurants and bars (I’m talking about espresso bars, not whiskey joints). And then most businesses grudgingly open their doors back up by around 4:30 or 5:00 and will continue to do business until about 8pm.

It’s a completely different lifestyle because many Italians are still working during a normal American dinner time. Dinner time here is 9 pm or later and most restaurants will not even be open before 8 pm. It’s not uncommon for large groups of people, kids in tow, to come rolling into a restaurant at 10 pm or later on a weeknight.

So what do Sicilians do in the evening when most Americans are eating dinner or passed out in front of the TV?

They walk.

They shop for dinner.

They sell vegetables.

They bake bread.

I love wandering around Catania after dark. The city comes alive. The dirtier, crumbling aspects of the city disappear with the sun and streetlights bring alive baroque details along side streets and in shadowed courtyards.

It’s always a shock to my system to walk inside one of Catania’s modern department stores after first wandering the dark cobblestone streets. But we were still in search Justin’s carryall, so into Coin we went! I will miss Coin not because of the clothing (I don’t fit into most Italian clothing), but because of their housewares department! They have the coolest kitchen stuff and every time I go there, I find something different! Oh, and they have good shoes too

We did eventually find a bag for Justin, and then it was time for pizza!

The restaurant was too dark to take photos of our actual pizza, but I did manage to get a shot of their pizza kitchen on the way out. I would love to have one of these ovens in my house!

While we were eating pizza, it started raining. At first it was nice because we were sitting on the second floor, and our table was next to an open door that led out to a covered terrace. We could hear the rain and it was relaxing. And then it started raining harder.

And then it rained harder.

Then it was raining so hard that the rain was coming in the restaurant so we had to close the door. I didn’t think much about it until it came time to leave. As we were walking down the stairs we noticed a group of people gathered around the exit.

It was then we realized that we were trapped. You see, the streets in Sicily don’t drain. When it rains hard, the streets turn into rivers. Since it’s been a while since I’ve experienced it, I had forgotten how bad it can get. The water outside the door had risen so much that we would have had to wade through it. But, the restaurant owner quickly took care of the problem.

They somehow managed to build a bridge to get us across the water to a dry patch. It wasn’t until we crossed the makeshift bridge that we saw the real problem.

Remember the photo earlier in the post, where people are walking down the street? Well, this is the same street a couple of hours later. Again, we were trapped. We huddled under the umbrella we purchased from one of the enterprising street vendors who were out wading in the water and I managed to take a few photos. But we saw some crazy things that I wasn’t able to photograph.

We saw restaurants and stores flooded, cars and scooters stalled in the road, an old woman bravely wading across the river (street) with water up above her knees, two friends fall into a manhole at the same time (the lids of the manholes had been washed away).

It was crazy. Ambulances and fire trucks were everywhere. All of this had happened in the time it took to eat some pizza.

Luckily, the rain slowed and the water started to recede after a few minutes. We did have to wade through some ankle-deep water a few times as we made our way back to the car but at least we didn’t fall into any manholes!

So that was our Saturday.

If you haven’t already, don’t forget to read part one of A Weekend in Sicily.

More pumpkin recipes coming up!

We didn’t do much last weekend. Not really. But when I look back at the photos, I feel like the luckiest person in the world to have spent this time here. It still feels like a dream.

I live in Sicily.

On Saturday morning we decided to drive up to the small town at the base of Mount Etna where we used to live, San Pietro Clarenza. It’s about 25 minutes from where we live now and there is a shop in the town center that sells some of the best pastries around.

A raviola is a Sicilian pastry that is filled with sweetened ricotta. It is made from yeasted dough and deep-fried so it is similar to an American filled donut (but soooo much better). There is another version, raviola al forno, that is baked. The baked ones are made with a different type of dough…something butter-rich and flaky. They are also wonderful, but messier to eat. I prefer the raviola fritta (fried) when they are available.

But regardless of whether the outside is fried or baked, it is the sweet ricotta on the inside that makes this treat special. The sheep’s milk ricotta here is unlike anything I’ve ever tasted. I will miss it as much as I will miss gelato, granita, and pizza.

The pastry Justin ordered (because they only had one raviola left) was similar to mine but filled with pastry cream instead. As you can see, it was also topped with more cream and a strawberry. And it was good!

Although the pastry and cappuccino were great, my favorite part of the morning was the drive. You never know what you’ll run across when driving through the small towns here. Sometimes you run into a herd of sheep or cows, sometimes you run into a huge group of cyclists and feel for a second like you’ve just run into the tour de France, and sometimes you get stuck driving 5 mph behind a horse and cart.

We didn’t actually get stuck behind this guy. We sped around him and stopped up the road so I could hop out and take some photos. I see horses and carts all the time here but this one was fun because the horse was all dressed up. Usually the horses only put on their fancy costumes during festivals.

So that was one little part of our day. I think I will break this into two posts but here’s a little hint of how the day ended…

More later!

I’m back from Transylvania and I just had to share with you my favorite food discovery! We ate these kurtoskalacs twice and I wish I would have had a chance to eat them a few more times!

Kurtoskalacs are a traditional Hungarian pastry and, depending on who you talk to, they are the oldest Hungarian pastry. History and Geography are two of my worst subjects but Transylvania, which is now part of Romania, was once part of Hungary. Or something like that. Anyway, there is still a sizable Hungarian population in Transylvania and these yummy kurtoskalacs, which I believe originate from Transylvania, are widely available.

So here’s what I was able to determine after eating some of these tasty Transylvanian treats and watching part of the assembly process. They are made with a yeasted dough, similar to a sweet roll dough. The dough is rolled or cut into long strips and then wrapped around a cylindrical mold. Then it gets brushed with oil and rolled in sugar.

Now for the interesting part. They get cooked over open coals, kind of like the way we roast marshmallows.

The spirals of dough are watched carefully and turned so that each part gets evenly browned. When they are perfectly caramelized, they are taken off the coals and rolled in a topping such as crushed nuts, cinnamon, coconut or colored sprinkles. They don’t have to be rolled in the additional topping, it’s up to you. They taste great with just the plain caramelized sugar glaze!

After the additional topping is added, the pastry is slid off cylindrical mold and allowed to cool briefly before being placed in a paper bag and sold to the next lucky customer. The regular-sized kurtoskalacs look huge but since they are hollow, looks are deceiving. I could easily eat one by myself

They also sell them in a smaller size. The small ones are great if you want to sample a few different flavors at once. The first time we visited the kurtoskalacs stand, we bought the small ones and sampled three different flavors: coconut, cinnamon, and pecan. They were all great but I think I liked coconut the best. Our friends tried one with sesame seeds and loved it!

The second time we visited the kurtoskalacs stand, I decided I had to get a large one. This time we tried it plain and I think it was my overall favorite. The sugar coating is just right…not too crunchy and not too sticky. And the bread is light and airy with a texture that reminded me of the inside of a glazed donut.

But my favorite thing about kurtoskalacs is the way they unravel as you eat them!

Since I wasn’t able to get photos of the bakers rolling the pastry dough onto the molds, I decided to see if anyone had posted a kurtoskalacs video on the Web. Sure enough, one of my favorite bloggers has a great little video clip of the kurtoskalacs being made. Go visit Ms. Adventures in Italy to check it out.

I also found that another one of my favorite foodbloggers has some experience with kurtoskalacs! Check out the photos and description at Habeas Brulee.

As for the rest of my Transylvanian adventures, you can check out my photos on Flickr. I have only uploaded about half of them but the rest should be up by tomorrow.

See you soon!

Seriously!

Can you think of a better place to visit in October?

I made the decision to leave my computer at home this time (shocking, I know), so I will be unplugged until the beginning of next week. I’ll be back to answer comments and e-mails by Tuesday. Have a great weekend!

I’m on the west coast now and I thought I would tempt you with some new farmer’s market photos! The Vineyard Farmer’s Market in Fresno, CA, gathers each Wednesday and Saturday under the cover of this beautiful greenery-draped arbor. My aunt and I woke up early and made it down to the market by around 8:00 a.m. on Saturday.

Although I have yet to cook with them myself, I’m always drawn to these bunches of colorful carrots.

Lots of beautiful grapes, peaches, and nectarines to be found here!

I first discovered chocolate mint at the Union Square Greenmarket in New York City. It amazingly smells exactly like chocolate mint candy. I haven’t cooked with it yet but I’m doing some research on different ways to use this stuff and plan on writing about it soon!

My aunt Kathy grabbed some green beans while I questioned these girls about some of the stranger-looking vegetables they had on display. I now know what bitter melon looks like (the prickly cucumber-like things in between the two types of purple eggplant) but I don’t really have any desire to taste it! Aren’t those eggplant beautiful?

Mmmmm…fresh okra! According to the nice woman who was selling these, the dark-colored ones are a different variety but taste the same as the green. Those little plastic bags sitting on top of the peppers are filled with pieces of cactus.

Update: Not so sure about okra? Check out the post over at Tastes Like Home and maybe you’ll change your mind!

In case you’ve never seen them fresh, these are what currants look like before they are dried and baked inside your favorite scones!

If you still haven’t checked out your own local farmer’s market yet, what are you waiting for? Remember, there are at least 10 reasons to buy local food!

I was lucky enough to stumble upon the Union Square Greenmarket on my very first morning in New York City. As I was jet-lagged and on a crazy sleeping schedule, I was up and out walking in midtown Manhattan at 5:30 a.m. It was a beautiful morning and the only people out were those with running shoes on their feet or dog leashes in hand. I had no idea where I was headed but sometimes there is nothing better than just wandering around a new city alone, absorbing the sights, sounds, and smells.

I walked past the lions guarding the New York Public Library, stared up in awe at the Empire State Building, and wandered through Madison Square Park, stopping for a moment to watch some dogs playing in the little dog run area. I realized that New Yorkers are very friendly in the early morning as I received many smiles, “hellos,” and was even introduced to an adorable bulldog named Gino.

As I continued wandering, I came upon the Union Square Greenmarket just as the trucks were unloading and vendors were beginning to set up. It was an unexpected and wonderful surprise as this particular Greenmarket was high on my list of things to experience in NYC. It was the best farmer’s market I’ve ever seen and all of the vendors I spoke with were very friendly and full of information. I was impressed not only with the quality and variety of items for sale but also the reasonable prices. I spent a couple of hours wandering around, taking photos, talking to people, and of course, eating.

I bought blueberries, raspberries, fresh organic yogurt, a loaf of olive bread, a log of herbed goat cheese, a basket filled with cherry tomatoes of varying sizes and colors, and a cup of fresh basil and mint iced tea sweetened with honey. I ate some of it for breakfast and packed the rest into my backpack for lunch. I also picked up some recipes and flyers from the Greenmarket information booth and I want to share some interesting information about buying local food.

Here are ten reasons to buy local food:

1. Local food tastes better — Food imported from far away is older, has traveled on trucks or planes, and sat in warehouses before it finally gets to you.

2. Local produce is better for you – The shorter the time between the farm and the table, the few nutrients will be lost.

3. Local food preserves genetic diversity — In the modern agricultural system, plant varieties are chosen for their ability to ripen uniformly, withstand harvesting, survive packing and last on the shelf so there is limited genetic diversity in large-scale production. Smaller local farms often grow many varieties in an array of colors and flavors.

4. Local food is safe — Local farmers aren’t anonymous and they take their responsibility to the consumer seriously.

5. Local food supports local families — Wholesale prices are low, often near the cost of production. Local farmers who sell directly to consumers cut out the middleman and get full retail price for their food, which helps farm families stay on the land.

6. Local food builds community — When you buy direct from a farmer, you’re engaging in a time-honored connection. Knowing farmers gives you insight into the seasons, the land, and your food. It gives you access to a place where your children and grandchildren can learn about nature and agriculture.

7. Local food preserves open space — When farmers get paid more, they’re less likely to sell their farmland for development. When you buy locally grown food, you’re doing something proactive to preserve our agricultural landscape.

8. Local food keeps taxes down — According to several studies, farms contribute more in taxes than they require in services, whereas most other kinds of development contribute less in taxes than the cost of the services they require.

9. Local food benefits the environment and wildlife — Well-managed farms conserve fertile soil and clean water in a patchwork of fields, meadows, woods, ponds, and buildings that provide habitat for wildlife.

10. Local food is an investment in the future — By supporting local farmers today, you help ensure that there will be farms in your community tomorrow.

This information was provided in the form of a flyer at the Union Square Greenmarket in New York City and was reprinted from “With an Ear to the Ground” by Vern Grubinger.

To learn more about New York City Greenmarkets, visit Council of the Environment of NYC and click on the Greenmarket section.