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Granita and Brioche for Breakfast

July 5, 2007 by Nicole 28 Comments

Granita for Breakfast

As our time here in Sicily is coming closer to an end, I find myself reflecting a lot on what I will miss most about living here. Of course I will miss the food, but I’ll be taking with me a whole new way of looking at food and cooking and will be able to continue eating in the Sicilian style wherever we end up in the world. But some things I will not be able to recreate. Some experiences cannot be reproduced in other parts of the world. One of the things I will most is sitting outside our favorite cafe on a warm summer morning, eating brioche and pistachio and/or almond granita for breakfast.

What is granita exactly? I could tell you that it is a frozen mixture of water, sugar, and a flavoring such as lemon, strawberry, mulberry, coffee, pistachio, almond, or in Catania, even chocolate. I could tell you that it’s sort of like a semi-frozen sorbet. I could send you to the wikipedia explanation, I could point you to other web sites that have tried to explain what it is that makes Sicilian granita different than anything else you will find in other parts of the world. But you just won’t understand until you sit down with that glass cup and spoon, warm, buttery brioche close at hand, and try it for yourself.

I have three favorite flavors of granita: lemon (limone), pistachio (pistacchio), and almond (mandorla). The lemon I always order by itself as its tartness doesn’t combine well with the other flavors. But the pistachio and almond are both so good that I usually have to order them together rather than try to choose between them. I’ve also been known to order a combination of pistachio and chocolate. The consistency of the granita here in Catania is hard to describe. It’s not slushy but it’s not solid. A spoonful holds together long enough to get into your mouth but then it melts instantly. It’s not icy or grainy but it’s not exactly smooth. It’s perfect. But the best part is the flavor. Because of the simple ingredients and the way that it’s made, the flavors are pure and intense, not watered down like typical Italian ices.

Don’t ask me how they make it. I’ve read the explanations, I understand that it is made from the simplest of ingredients and stirred and frozen to just the right consistency, but there has to be some magic involved. I just don’t understand how water, sugar, and pistachios can turn into something that tastes so creamy but at the same time is so light and refreshing. It has to be magic, there’s no other explanation. How else do you explain the fact that you can’t get anything like this anywhere else in the world?

So maybe you’re wondering why the granita is eaten with brioche. Here, brioche is not only eaten with granita, it’s also a standard accompaniment to gelato. Gelato is Italy’s version of ice cream (creamier and better than American ice cream in every way) and it is really the only other good breakfast choice during the sweltering summers here. That’s right, when they aren’t eating granita, Sicilians eat ice cream for breakfast during the summer. But, back to the brioche. The sweet bread is literally eaten together with the granita and gelato. You can dip the bread into your granita, you can scoop the granita onto a piece of the bread (my preferred method) or you can just eat them side by side. Gelato, on the other hand, is often served right inside the brioche. The bread is split and the ice cream scoop is placed inside. Mmmmmmmm. But back to the original question. Why? It’s best not to question these things. You have to try it, to understand it.

So this is just one of the many many things I will miss about Sicily when we leave here in November. You will be seeing more posts like this as I spend the next few months organizing my photos and memories, trying once and for all to capture the spirit of this island that has changed me so deeply.

Filed Under: Miscellaneous, Sicily

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. annie says

    July 5, 2007 at 12:50 pm

    What a lovely, evocative post. I have spent (not nearly enough) time in Italy, and of all the places in the world I have been, its always my choice in answer to the "if you could live anywhere in the world" or "if you had only six weeks to live" questions. Everything is different, and food is sort of vested with magical qualities. Granita is high on the list of magical foods (along with melon gelato). I can make my own brioche, but I think I'd have to go back to Italy for Granita. Thanks for a great read.
    Reply
  2. Coleen Balent says

    July 5, 2007 at 2:08 pm

    There's nothing like a granita and brioche for breakfast! It's the best way to start the day. Yum!
    Reply
  3. Ruby Berry says

    July 5, 2007 at 3:02 pm

    It was a pleasure reading this post especially as you have successfully summarized your palette's experience in one simple yet enjoyable post! I know you will savor your last days in Sicily, I'm so glad you had the opportunity. The granita and brioche look delicious! :)
    Reply
  4. Jason says

    July 5, 2007 at 4:01 pm

    Do you think it would be possible to make granitas in CA? Why was it we didn't get any? We ate just about everything else.
    Reply
  5. Katiez says

    July 5, 2007 at 4:02 pm

    I have no problem with ice cream and brioche for breakfast... a most excellent idea! Must be kind of bittersweet, knowing you are leaving - where to next?
    Reply
  6. Kathy says

    July 5, 2007 at 4:11 pm

    How quickly you brought back my experiences in Catania. I could taste the granita, brioche and the atmosphere. Thanks for sharing.
    Reply
  7. Terry B says

    July 5, 2007 at 4:55 pm

    Another beautiful post, Nicole. And another example of how food is about so much more than food. You may never find that kind of granita anywhere else, but I'm sure a warm brioche will never fail to trigger wonderful memories of this place for you, wherever you are.
    Reply
  8. Abby says

    July 5, 2007 at 5:45 pm

    "That’s right, when they aren’t eating granita, Sicilians eat ice cream for breakfast during the summer." I always KNEW I was supposed to have been Italian...
    Reply
  9. Maureen says

    July 5, 2007 at 7:26 pm

    My friend Coleen forwarded me your blog, as I am as crazy about granita as you are! With my time whittled down to 3 weeks here in Sicily, I venture out almost daily to find Arazio, with his Pardise truck (like the Good Humor man here!) who makes his homemade granita and brioche and delivers it to customers, like me, who pull off the road to get a little cup from him with a brioche on the side--all for 1 euro! My 23 month old likes to pull off the "button" from the top of the brioche! I must tell you that my favorite is the short-lived peach flavor--and it is wonderful "mezza limone, mezza pesche" (hope I got that right!) Peach and lemon are also wonderful shared with fragola, or strawberry! Tomorrow morning I hit the streets again early in search for Arazio--who has even "fronted" the granita to me when I am out strolling with baby senza eurocents because he knows me that well! Hey, I just remembered! I am invited to a granita afternoon party tomorrow! Ciao!
    Reply
  10. Nicole says

    July 5, 2007 at 7:55 pm

    Annie: Thanks for the nice comment! I know I'll be back in Italy someday. I can't imagine not returning! Coleen: Yep! I wish we had a granita/gelato guy here in Marinai :-( Ruby: Thanks! After I come back from the states, I will be running around like crazy trying to cram in as many last minute experiences as I can! I know, because I see people go through it all the time as they get ready to leave here! Jason: Did we really not have any granita when you were here? Oh yeah, it was the wrong time of year! If you follow one of the links from my post, you can read about how one guy tried his best to make Sicilian granita at home. Katiez: We're heading to San Diego next. From one sunny place to another :-) Kathy: When I was writing it, I was thinking about our trips to Catania :-) I went by myself on Saturday, had a great time. Terry: Thanks! For me, food memories are always stronger than any other memories when I think back to the places I have lived or visited. Abby: hahaha...isn't it a great way to live?? Maureen: Thanks for sharing! I haven't tried pesche granita but I'm sure it's wonderful! I think I would like to try pesche and fragola together but I still prefer lemon by itself ;-) I think I'm gonna have to take myself out for some granita tomorrow morning too :-)
    Reply
  11. Caty says

    July 5, 2007 at 9:22 pm

    What a beautiful post! I spent my summer in Italy last year and fell truly, madly, deeply in love with lemon granita. I really should try to make some at home but it's really not the same is it? Make sure to make the most of your last few months. And thank you for bringing back some wonderful memories.
    Reply
  12. Sandy says

    July 8, 2007 at 11:31 am

    I can't believe you posted an answer to questions my husband asked me yesterday! I will send him here so he can find out exactly what gelato and granita are. He has been interested since you posted photos last summer. Enjoy your last months there, Nicole!
    Reply
  13. Coleen Balent says

    July 8, 2007 at 12:54 pm

    We went to a granita party on Friday and couldn't help but to think of you! I put a link to your blog in my post about granita because you explain it so much better than me since I'm only 13 months and all. :)
    Reply
  14. Kristen says

    July 10, 2007 at 1:47 pm

    I think I need to move. Gelato for breakfast? What could be better?
    Reply
  15. Karen says

    July 10, 2007 at 9:58 pm

    I've not been to Sicliy (yet), but some of my favorite books mention this particular treat. The thought of eating brioche filled with gelato makes my mouth water! I suppose I could make a version of this, but somehow it wouldn't have the romance of yours - at the source!
    Reply
  16. butters says

    July 12, 2007 at 1:30 am

    My father is from Sicily and I am sad to say that I have only been there once. I remember eating granita while I was there as a child and not particularly loving it. On the other hand, my sister was crazy about it! I guess I'll have to go back and try it for myself again. I'm sure I would love it this time. Especially the lemon!
    Reply
  17. Nanners says

    July 22, 2007 at 2:29 am

    That sounds exactly like my kind of breakfast! I very very much agree that gelato is "better than American ice cream in every way". I recently saw little pints of gelato sitting next to the ice cream in my very conservative grocery store and got kind of excited. It's great that gelato (and granita) are slowly making their way into American homes!
    Reply
  18. Linda says

    August 26, 2007 at 12:42 am

    We just returned from Messina and had 3 breakfasts straight of granita and brioche...2 chocolate with whipped cream and the last (and soo awesome) was strawberry on top and lemon on the bottom. The brioche was warm..it's a mystery and totally unknown even in Sorrento. It is a completely Sicilian thing..glad I'm Sicilian~breakfast in Rome/Sorrento is excellent, but not as special as granita/brioche.
    Reply
  19. Geri says

    August 27, 2007 at 3:48 am

    Thank you for your story on granita. It is truly magical and it's hard to explain. It's just simply perfect in everyway. I remember being speechless when I tasted my first in downtown old Catania - just in shock that something could be that good. Then I had if everyday from a sweet shop in Nicolosi. We were staying with relatives in Pedara. Good luck in your new location. I did bring alot of the mandorla pasta and pistacchio pasta back home to replicate the ones we tasted ~ almost but not quite.
    Reply
  20. Nicole says

    August 27, 2007 at 5:02 pm

    Linda: Chocolate with whipped cream is very popular in Catania too! And strawberry and lemon really is a great combination. I will really miss those breakfasts when I leave Sicily! Geri: Thanks for the stopping by! There really is something magical about Sicilian granita!
    Reply
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